If you kind of noticed that modern fashion industry cannot offer you anything you like in your size, it’s time to check out this easy guide about how to cut princess dart blouse!
All you are going to need is some free time, paper, a pair of scissors, a pen, a ruler, and this ultimate princess dart tutorial in order to make the princess dart blouse you’ve been dreaming about!
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1. How to cut princess dart blouse: taking the measurements
- Blouse length should be measured from shoulder tip to the waist.
- The distance from one armpit to the other over the highest point of bust.
- The distance from one armpit to the other from the back side.
- Shoulder to shoulder length.
- The length of the sleeve.
- Sleeve round.
- The armhole round.
- Back neckline depth.
- Front neckline depth.
- Waist round.
- The distance between the highest points of bust.
- The distance between the shoulder and bust apex.
2. Princess cut blouse drafting: make the back bodice pattern
Tips:
- B- D –blouse length + 1″ for seams.
- P-H =Back measurement + 1.5″ – to get the bust line.
- B-F = (From one shoulder to the other/ 2) + 1/4″.
- J-E = 3″ –the shoulder strap.
Instructions:
- Mark B-P = (armhole opening round/2 ) – 1″.
- Mark Straight to H.
- Mark Straight down from F to line H-P at G.
- Mark I slightly outside of G.
- G-I = 1/4″.
- D-N = (Waist round/4) + 1.5″.
- Join H and N.
3. Mark the neck depth for back and front and armhole
Instructions:
- From I mark 3/4″ diagonally to O.
- Join J-O-H.
- Mark E-M – 8″ or as needed – to get the back neck depth.
- Mark straight down from E to K. From K mark 1″ diagonally up to L.
- Join E-L-M in a gentle curve.
4. Mark the dart
Mark the dart 4.5 inches from the fold. The dart length itself is 4 inches. If you are making a long blouse, enlarge the dart length up to 6 inches. The dart width should be 1″ or 1/2″on both sides from the mark.
Keeping the pattern of the back bodice on the folded fabric, trace it outside and cut off the majority of the traced lines. You can reuse some old paper for this.
Read about: how to cut and sew female trousers
5. Princess blouse cutting step by step: front bodice pattern
Carefully study this princess cut blouse cutting step by step manual:
- Make all the necessary measurements: neck width, shoulder on the front bodice piece as on the back pattern. Pay attention that you don’t have to measure the waist for the front pattern part. Move on as the picture shows.
- Cut off the piece where yoke should be joined from R- Q. Put this piece aside. Instead, you’ll cut and stitch another yoke part here.
- After marking the pattern on the material, cut through the center fold M-Q in order to divide the front part into two pieces.
6. Mark the darts as follows on the front pattern pieces
- Mark A – C – measure from shoulder to bust apex + 1/2 inch.
- Mark A-B – Distance between bust apex / 2 – 1/2 inch.
- Dart L-N = 1″.
- M-O = Dart as per difference between bust round and waist round.
- Dart B – 1″.
7. For E dart the width is determined this way:
- Measure bust round – waist round = Z.
- If z is less than 4 inches make dart width 1″.
- If z is more than 4 inches make dart width 2″.
- If z is more than 6 inches make dart width 3″.
Then just cut the area inside the darts at E & B out. Cut through L-A-M & N-A-O dividing the front bodice half divided into another half.
Pat attention to this tip of how to cut blouse upper part. Cutting the fabric for the front bodice upper part, make sure to mark the seam allowance of 1/4 inch along the princess line you have just cut. Add 1/4 inch for seam allowance to the L-A-M & N-A-O sides with the help of the paper pattern on the material that is folded with its right sides together.
In such a way you will be able to mirror the image pattern pieces. Repeat this for all the front bodice parts including the yoke parts.
Read also:Sewing trousers step by step
8. Make the yoke pattern
- B-C should be equal to R-Q at the front bodice pattern.
- Cut out the 2 placket parts.
- The length of the placket parts should be longer than the length of the front bodice by 1″ while its width should be 1.5 inches and the other part should be 2.5 inches.
So you’ve become quite an expert in how to cut princess dart in Nigeria! Check out this video to have an even deeper understanding!
9. How to cut and sew princess dart video
HOW TO MEASURE CUT AND SEW PRINCESS CUT BLOUSE
Learn how to give measurements for princess seam,and how to sew it in right way. FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sewing-addict/601558289891281 TWITTER https://twitter.com/anjali5822
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